I bought 4 oz 99.3% KNO3 powered, to make liquid fertilizer for planted aquarium.
I use http://calc.petalphile.com/ for calculation.
4oz = 113.4 gram.
My goal is each 1ml fertilizer for each 5 gallon water to raise NO3 by 5 ppm. To get close to 113.4 gram, I got 734ml, which is 24.8oz. But I don't have that big size bottle. So I end up use 2oz the powered with 12.4 oz water solution.
The dose is 1ml for every 5 gallon water, which raise NO3 by 5ppm.
Friday, May 24, 2013
Thursday, May 23, 2013
Mosses
Dear future me, I know you will again open this page MIX of MOSSes 5 Species Aquatic Moss on eBay, and wonder what each of those mosses are, how they look like, and what care condition they require, so here they are.
"JAVA MOSS" - Taxiphyllum Barbieri,
too common, pass.
"CRYSTALSTALWORT" - Riccia Fluitans, YES
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/myPlants.php?do=view&p=106
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/myPlants.php?do=view&p=106
Information
Liverwort "ROUND PELIA" - Susswassertang Freshwater Seaweed,
http://www.aquabotanic.com/?tag=Subwassertang
http://www.aquabotanic.com/?tag=Subwassertang
Name: Subwassertang
Lighting: All levels
Difficulty: Easy-Moderate
Placement: All over the tank but best in foreground of attached to objects in tank
Pros: Rhizomes grow in a nice stratified pattern, grows in low light, and is shrimp friendly
Cons: It can quickly react to water quality: poor=dead
Liverwort "MONOSOLENIUM TENERUM" Pellia
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/myPlants.php?do=view&p=96&n=Pellia_Monosolenium_tenerum
Information
"CREEPING MOSS" - Vesicularia Sp.
http://www.freshwatershrimp.co.uk/product.php?id_product=171
Called creeping moss because it stays very low and creeps over anything. Creeping moss is very easy plant to grow and will thrive in all water conditions. The growth is quite slow. Great option for low maintenance aquariums. Low Light or High Light CO2 or no CO2 Cold or Tropical Fertilized or not This is not an import from Asia. Grown in EU.
"SPIKY MOSS" - Taxiphyllum Sp.
Grow into beautiful big triangle shape. Easily grow at temperature 26-28 C
"PHOENIX MOSS" - Fissidens Fontanus. YES
http://www.aquamoss.net/Fissidens-fontanus/Fissidens-fontanus.htm
http://www.aquamoss.net/Fissidens-fontanus/Fissidens-fontanus.htm
Information
"TAIWAN MOSS" - Taxiphyllum alternans.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/myPlants.php?do=view&p=168&n=Taiwan_moss_Taxiphyllum_alternans
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/myPlants.php?do=view&p=168&n=Taiwan_moss_Taxiphyllum_alternans
Information
* "STRINGY MOSS" - Leptodietyum Riparium. * YES
"WILLOW MOSS" - Frontinalis Antipyretia, YES
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/myPlants.php?do=view&p=253&n=Willow_Moss_Fontinalis_antipyretica
Information
* "SINGAPORE MOSS" - Vesicularia dubyana. *
"PEACOCK MOSS" - Taxiphyllum sp.
*** The following are OUT OF STOCK in time of this writting. ***
"CHRISTMAS MOSS" - Vesicularia Montagnei, OUT OF STOCK
http://www.aquascapingworld.com/plantpedia/full_view_plant.php?item_id=114
Plant Profile
Scientific Name: Vesicularia montagnei
Common Name: Christmas Moss
Difficulty: Easy
CO2 Requirements: Low
Lighting Requirements: Low
Plant Arrangement: Variable
Growth Rate: Slow
Family: Hypnaceae
Genus: Vesicularia
Origin: Asia
Plant Type: Moss
Water Hardness: Medium (GH = 9-13 dH)
* "GIANT MOSS" - Taxiphyllum Sp. * NEW OUT OF STOCK
http://www.aquamoss.net/Giant-Moss/Giant-Moss.htm
"FLAME MOSS" - Taxiphyllum Sp. OUT OF STOCK
http://www.aquamoss.net/Flame-Moss/Flame-Moss.htm
* "FLAT MOSS" - Drepanocladus Sp. * OUT OF STOCK
"WEEPING MOSS" - Vesicularia ferreri. NEW OUT OF STOCK
http://www.aquamoss.net/Weeping-Moss/Weeping-Moss.htm
* "RICCIA RHENANA" * NEW OUT OF STOCK
Liverwort "LOMARIOPSIS LINEA" OUT OF STOCK
*"SOUTH AMERICA MOSS" - Vesicularia S.America. * NEW OUT OF STOCK
"ANCHOR MOSS" - Taxiphyllum sp. OUT OF STOCK
* "BRAZIL MOSS" - Vesicularia sp. * OUT OF STOCK
OUT OF STOCK * "MINI TAIWAN MOSS" * OUT OF STOCK
Update on my 29G tank, light, water, and HC
So obviously, my older post about HC melting because of temperature is just some BS. The reason they were fine in the first couple weeks was probably because it halted/hibernated at growing, because there was not enough light or CO2. As soon as it tried to start growing again, it melted. The actual reason is mostly lack of light, secondary was not enough CO2. That's why the ones near CO2 reactor melted first, because it the condition turned a bit better cause it to leave hibernate state earlier.
I latter updated the lights of the tank.
First, I put in 3 10W LED flood light in the front hood (the one can open). I just drilled the holes and screw them on the hood. It is slightly tilted, makes the light pointed a bit towards the back, which is prefect. The light may not have the prefect spectrum for plant grow, but they are super bright, and the watt don't lie. Given the wattage and the lighting efficiency of LED in general, it should be pretty helpful for the plant. But after that, I feel the light is still not strong/bright enough. So I continued to replace the 17W T8 as well.
Second, I replaced the 17W T8 with 55W duo T5 light from a DIY kit. I picked the 6400K daylight bulb because I was not enjoying the kind of red color the 2700K T8 was giving out. It is decided for plants, so it should have better spectrum than the LEDs. But for brightness, it is a bit lower than the 3 LEDs.
This is how they look like:
Altogether, there seems to be enough light for the plants to thrive, and they are giving out a lot more new grow, including HC!
Another important factor I learned for lighting is the water clarity. Before, probably because of the driftwood and the almond leaves I put in for the discus, the water was always yellowish. Also I was not changing the water often because the parameter was just fine (always 0 nitrite, probably because all used up by plants). At the time all the new lights were installed, I bought a new pack of HC to give it the last try. After a week or so, it is not doing well and some of them seem start dying. That mean the light was still not enough. However, the top of my tank had already ran out of space for another light. Also, algae started to grow like everywhere. First is the green algae that cover the front glass of the tank that I can barely see the fish, and those on the top part of the glass were pearling! That mean the light is strong, but can't efficiently reach the bottom of the tank. As a desperate attempt, I tried to increase the clarity of the water. I got a product Seachem Purigen, and did a 50% water change. The result came out to be amazing. The water stay clear for weeks and never turn yellow again (before it always get back to yellow after couple days), and the HC started to giving out new leaves, slowly but surely. After I wiped out the green algae from the glass, they did not come back. So the plants were competing with it for light and nutrition and win.
However, the black brush algae, which started out break in the same time as the green algae, did not die out, but instead getting bigger. After some searching, I found that CO2 is the most likely solution to BBA, and Flourish Excel would be the easiest way as treatment. So I started to dose Flourish Excel. Initially, I doubled the dose for both initial dose and the daily doses after. The results are quick. Couple days after the initial dose, the BBA started to turn green, which mean it was dying. After a week, it is almost all gone. The Flourish Excel not only cleaned out the algae, but also made other plants thrive better. HC is now growing out big bright green leaves, looks nice and healthy (I also added some microswords, to see which can grow better carpet given my tank's condition):
As Flourish Excel is just mean for temporary treatment because of its price, I added the second bottle to the DIY CO2 to bring up the CO2 level constantly. Hopefully the plants will live happily ever after.
I latter updated the lights of the tank.
First, I put in 3 10W LED flood light in the front hood (the one can open). I just drilled the holes and screw them on the hood. It is slightly tilted, makes the light pointed a bit towards the back, which is prefect. The light may not have the prefect spectrum for plant grow, but they are super bright, and the watt don't lie. Given the wattage and the lighting efficiency of LED in general, it should be pretty helpful for the plant. But after that, I feel the light is still not strong/bright enough. So I continued to replace the 17W T8 as well.
Second, I replaced the 17W T8 with 55W duo T5 light from a DIY kit. I picked the 6400K daylight bulb because I was not enjoying the kind of red color the 2700K T8 was giving out. It is decided for plants, so it should have better spectrum than the LEDs. But for brightness, it is a bit lower than the 3 LEDs.
This is how they look like:
Altogether, there seems to be enough light for the plants to thrive, and they are giving out a lot more new grow, including HC!
Another important factor I learned for lighting is the water clarity. Before, probably because of the driftwood and the almond leaves I put in for the discus, the water was always yellowish. Also I was not changing the water often because the parameter was just fine (always 0 nitrite, probably because all used up by plants). At the time all the new lights were installed, I bought a new pack of HC to give it the last try. After a week or so, it is not doing well and some of them seem start dying. That mean the light was still not enough. However, the top of my tank had already ran out of space for another light. Also, algae started to grow like everywhere. First is the green algae that cover the front glass of the tank that I can barely see the fish, and those on the top part of the glass were pearling! That mean the light is strong, but can't efficiently reach the bottom of the tank. As a desperate attempt, I tried to increase the clarity of the water. I got a product Seachem Purigen, and did a 50% water change. The result came out to be amazing. The water stay clear for weeks and never turn yellow again (before it always get back to yellow after couple days), and the HC started to giving out new leaves, slowly but surely. After I wiped out the green algae from the glass, they did not come back. So the plants were competing with it for light and nutrition and win.
However, the black brush algae, which started out break in the same time as the green algae, did not die out, but instead getting bigger. After some searching, I found that CO2 is the most likely solution to BBA, and Flourish Excel would be the easiest way as treatment. So I started to dose Flourish Excel. Initially, I doubled the dose for both initial dose and the daily doses after. The results are quick. Couple days after the initial dose, the BBA started to turn green, which mean it was dying. After a week, it is almost all gone. The Flourish Excel not only cleaned out the algae, but also made other plants thrive better. HC is now growing out big bright green leaves, looks nice and healthy (I also added some microswords, to see which can grow better carpet given my tank's condition):
As Flourish Excel is just mean for temporary treatment because of its price, I added the second bottle to the DIY CO2 to bring up the CO2 level constantly. Hopefully the plants will live happily ever after.
Wednesday, May 22, 2013
CO2 recipe #3
05/21/2013, a new CO2 recipe started, almost identical with the last one, but this time I have 2 bottles:
- 1/4 teaspoon of EC-1118 Wine yeast
- 3 cups of sugar
- some milk, did not measure, just pour some in
- 1ml of baby multi-vitamin
The first bottle is started on 05/21, a new one added to the previous exhausted bottle. Then the old bottle is renewed on 05/22, same recipe.
The difference I did this time is to better start the yeast. I measure the yeast into a cup, then add some warm water, and SOME SUGAR. Let them sit for like 10 minutes while I mixing everything else into the bottle, then pour the yeast into the bottle and let it sit for like 5 minutes before connect it back to the CO2 pipe. This way the bottle seems start faster stronger.
05/22 pm, it is producing 1.5 bps. It is day 1 for the first bottle, and it is counted after the second bottle is renewed. A fast start.
05/23 pm, it is producing 2.7 bps. Now the water is PH 6.6, KH 5, so CO2 = 38ppm. Just went over safe level. Maybe need to run air stone during the night.
05/23 pm, it is producing 2.7 bps. Now the water is PH 6.6, KH 5, so CO2 = 38ppm. Just went over safe level. Maybe need to run air stone during the night.
Thursday, May 16, 2013
HC grow log
My third attempt on growing HC carpet. This time it is in a 10 gallon tank, and start dry. So initially I grow them emersed because they grow faster that way, and no need to worry about co2 or floating. After they spread out to form the carpet, i will then submerge them in water and start fill it habitats.
It may take 4 weeks to grow into carpet. The planting was done last Sunday. today is the 4th day. It looks there are new leaves coming. So far it is just growing by sun light only. I oreder a new light and it should come by this week.
 |
| 05/16: The start |
 |
| 05/20: Updated 2nd picture. Giving out new leaves, not yet spreading out. |
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| 05/29: all packs are getting bigger, also added more from main tank that floated up. |
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